Upholstery Hand Tools

Upholstery Hand Tools

Lift and remove old upholstery staples

Decide whether you need to get under the crown, reach around an obstruction or pull out a leg that stayed in the wood.

Inspect the edge before you pull

Turn the seat so you can see where the fabric is fixed. A staple has a bridge with a leg at each end. Upholstery tacks have a head over a single shank. Choose an opening that can get under the fastener you see and check what part of the frame the tool will rest on.

Use reach where access is the problem

Compare the Osborne 124 and 124-12 when a rail or folded cover obstructs the approach. The 124 has a 2¼-inch blade, while the 124-12 has an 8¼-inch blade and is specifically described for hard-to-reach staples. If you can already get the tip under the crown, the shorter body occupies less of the work area.

Switch to a gripping tool when the crown breaks

A fork helps start a staple that is still flat. If only one leg remains exposed, a jaw you can close on the metal gives you a different way to pull. The Osborne 600 uses a bent nose to get below a staple and grip it. Compare that shape with the room available around your seat rail.

Check the mounting line before covering it

Once you can see the wood, look along the intended attachment line for remaining metal before deciding where to place new staples. A seat board can have old staples from both the cover and the dust cloth. Check the two lines separately when the layers were attached at different points.

Source documentation

Guide questions

Do I need a longer tool for every staple on a deep seat?

Check the approach to the actual staple. Use the smaller lifter where the crown is exposed and consider the longer blade for the ones hidden behind a rail or folded cover.

How do I choose a first tool if the original metal is hidden?

Expose enough of the fastening line to see whether you have a staple crown or a tack head. Then pick the tip that can get under it.

What if the lift is easy but the pull is awkward?

Check whether the bridge stays intact and how much leg is exposed. Compare a gripping tool if you can get its jaws around the metal.

Which accessory suits the job?

  1. Start the crown, then grip the metal. The No. 124 uses a forked blade to get the crown started. The No. 600 brings jaws that can close on exposed metal. Compare the two if the rail still holds broken legs after the first pass. Check room to pivot and squeeze beside the same rail.

  2. Keep the forked design and compare blade reach. The regular 124 has a 2¼-inch blade. The 124-12 has an 8¼-inch blade for reaching a crown behind an obstruction. Measure where the tool must pass the rail or fold.

Accessories in this guide

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